Bottom Bracket Selection Guide
A Giant Pain: REVOLT Install Solved
The Giant Revolt is a competent and capable bike that poses a challenge for anyone installing one of our One-Piece bottom bracket modules, but once you see how it's done, you'll have no problem at all. These tricky aspects only apply to mechanical shifting bikes. If you have Di2, eTap/AXS, or even EPS, the install will be very straightforward, and the challenges shown here simply do not apply. BBInfinite is here to solve the bottom bracket creaking and squeaking that's ruining you ride. BBInfinite doesn't just fix a bottom bracket creak, we deliver the highest spin performance of any bottom bracket system out there. Faster and creak-free? Absolutely, with BBInfinite.
There are several BB86 bikes that are kind of a difficult fitment for our One-Piece bottom brackets- 99 percent of them are just fine. Now this Giant Revolt is one of those ones that does give us a problem with our one-piece BB86 bottom bracket but if you have an Axis system on your bike on your Giant Revolt or you have a Di2 system, this doesn't apply to you. There's no problem because our bottom brackets have this dog bone shape that the wires for Di2 will go around. This only is an issue the fitment issue that we're going to talk about with the Revolt mechanical shift bikes. So if you come on in here you can see this is the obstacle right here and what we need to do is we're going to have to push it down now in order to do that we need to relieve the cable tension so I have taken the cable loose from the front derailleur and from the rear derailleur I have zip tied it and it's fully open position you can also loosen up the bolt here and allow the cable to be free we had no point do we need to pull them out all we're trying to do is get some slack in them okay just like that now this one right here we just want to drop this one out first now we have to be extremely careful we do not want to kink the cables okay see how tight that is right there you know you don't want to go much tighter than that that's about it right there you could really kink a cable doing this so that's why we want everybody who is doing this to use extreme caution and you know don't get frustrated and just take your time and slide it out nice and easily now this one right here we can just push it push it to the side and it sort of wants to drop out now if it doesn't want to if it doesn't want to drop out like that that's fine because we just need to kind of like squeeze out past it doesn't need to come out all the way and once again it doesn't have that much uh it doesn't have much tension on it back here but you can't just pull this thing clear out of the bike you might accidentally pull the cable out that could really complicate your life okay inside of here there is going to be a uh a problem with like there's like a sharp ridge back here what I want to do is I'm going to go in here with a little bit of sandpaper just like that see how see what an angle I'm at I'm not I'm not standing here at any time the only sanding I'm doing is on the back side what I'm doing is I'm rounding the contour off the back side so when the module comes through it's not going to hit a sharp edge it's going to hit a nice progressive edge like a chamfer on the inside and it's going to help it to just steer right down into this hole you guys see this window right here when we're when we're done with it this is going to be in line with that now at this juncture you don't have to worry about that too much because once I get this in about that far this is actually going to get loose in here and we can manipulate it because like i said this first stage we're not too worried about when I say first stage what i mean is boom see how the sudden that loosened up because it was only about that much of an area that was actually at that 41 and all through here is much larger we got like this thing here we got we got this thing here so what we need to do is we need to go in here if you can see how I just my finger's kind of blocking it because I'll use my finger to pop that line up right on top of that bottom bracket let me shine this in there you see it right there you can see this one right here I need to kind of push that like this as I push through see how that one's clear and now I need to push up here to clear that one just like that and you can see right now that I am steering it into its final destination now this is a critical moment because this piece right here we need to make sure that these are still staying loose we don't want to pinch anything inside of here of course and then we want at this moment we need to steer it right into place so that it's coming into the bore nice and square and you can see that it's coming in nice and square now at this moment we're going to put the retaining compound on it so now that we've now that we know we can get it home where we want it we're going to back it out very slightly just like that and I'm going to put retaining compound on it before you push this in to the point where you can't turn it anymore you need to look through this window and you can see the red bushing inside of there, okay we need to make sure it doesn't look like this right we need to make sure it doesn't look like this right we want it to look like this it goes from side to side you see that just like that that's exactly the way we want it now we're going to square it back up into the hole like we did before being very careful not to get all this goop this Loctite actually it's Vibra-Tite but we're going to go ahead and get that started you see how I was able to - yeah, now you need to get the press on it but now we can see all the way around that it is going in absolutely straight and then we look in here we're absolutely straight lined up there perfect on all of our bottom brackets it says on the body what kind of bearings it has this says 4030. this one also happen right here on the body and it also happens to say 4030 right here out on the flange not all of them do say it out there but all of them say it's somewhere on the body now the reason why this is important is because when you are using our tool uh you need to select the proper bearing die to go in just like that right because you don't want to select the wrong one because you're you'll be pressing on the wrong part of the bearing the reason why we can press with such confidence is because we know that we're not pinching any wires because we've done our inspections along the way to make sure that doesn't happen now this has an aluminum liner on this frame it's not just like carbon on uh carbon on the anodized aluminum of our module so it's aluminum against aluminum so you won't always hear a popping noise like you do generally speaking when you're doing carbon don't worry about that that's fairly typical this is also fairly typical you'll notice if you can see that there is kind of a gap here at the top at the top of it right here there's a gap see that you notice how there's no gap down here that's uh that's uh that's what happens that's because the frame isn't quite straight but our module's going in straight so that'll just show you right there that if that was a two-piece bottom bracket this one would be conforming to this and this would be conforming to that and then neither one of the bearings are actually in line with each other ours is a cylinder it's a hub so no problem the critical juncture and this is what makes this the advanced class you thought all that other stuff did no it is this because you do not want to kink this okay at this juncture all right so you see that we do have a nice progressive bend in it but if we want to start getting really radical with trying to push this back in we're gonna, we're gonna cause ourselves a problem so we need to do is we need to pull this back far enough and you may have to clean some stuff out of here if this thing's been on the road for a while this could be kind of difficult but what we want to do is we want to pull a nice loop out like this see how there's no bending no snow tight it's getting tight this is making me nervous but we can do this all right so now this piece needs to basically go in straight okay because it's kind of going up I can show you guys it's going like up inside if you'll come around here take a look it needs to go up like inside but we can't go in at a steep angle we need to go in at a very gradual angle which is another reason why we need to pull this loop out okay because you see how it wants to go in at that gradual angle just like that boom did you see that go in all right now I'm left with this loop that's a very safe looking loop all right so now we can pull it now we can pull it back in just like that things to look out for on any install we want to see hey what if this screw is too long and it wants to go up and hit the bushing so what we want to do is we want to go ahead and screw that in and then wiggle the bushing to make sure that the screw is not coming up so far that's trying to force the true drive sleeve over that way so anyway bikes are always going to try to throw you a curveball so you always have to be thinking ahead
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